Timeless Threads: The Story of Khadi Cotton Industry in Andhra Pradesh – From Ponduru to Mangalagiri

 

                                  

Introduction

The Khadi cotton industry stands as a timeless symbol of India’s self-reliance and cultural identity. In Andhra Pradesh, this legacy is kept alive in quaint towns like Ponduru and Mangalagiri, where master weavers blend tradition with craftsmanship to produce some of the finest handwoven khadi cotton in the country. In this blog post, we explore the history, process, significance, and current scenario of the Khadi cotton industry in Andhra Pradesh, focusing on key towns that have become synonymous with heritage weaving.

1. What is Khadi Cotton?

Khadi cotton is hand-spun and handwoven fabric made from natural fibers, mostly cotton, sometimes blended with silk or wool. It became a symbol of India’s freedom struggle under Mahatma Gandhi, who encouraged Indians to boycott British goods and wear khadi as a statement of self-reliance and nationalism.

Key Characteristics of Khadi Cotton:

• Handspun yarn and handwoven fabric

• Breathable and eco-friendly

• Unique texture and durability

• Promotes rural employment and sustainability

2. The Historical Significance of Khadi in Andhra Pradesh

Andhra Pradesh has long been one of India’s traditional weaving states, with deep-rooted connections to cotton cultivation, spinning, and weaving. The khadi movement flourished here in the 20th century, thanks to the involvement of Gandhian organizations and local weaving communities who took to khadi production with pride and purpose.

3. Ponduru – The Jewel of Fine Khadi

3.1. Introduction to Ponduru Khadi

Ponduru, a small village in Srikakulam district of Andhra Pradesh, is world-renowned for its exceptionally fine khadi. The yarn here is handspun to counts as high as 125 and 150, which is a rare feat achieved using traditional charkhas and meticulous craftsmanship.

3.2. Unique Features of Ponduru Khadi

• Fine Count Cotton: Ponduru khadi is often referred to as “muslin khadi” due to its ultra-fine texture.

• Desi Cotton Varieties: The cotton used is often sourced from local varieties like "Punasa" and "Gollaprolu," which are rich in strength and shine.

• Natural Spinning Techniques: The entire spinning process is done by hand, without using synthetic dyes or modern machinery.

3.3. Gandhi’s Visit and Legacy

Mahatma Gandhi personally visited Ponduru in the 1920s and appreciated the extraordinary fineness of its khadi. He even used Ponduru khadi for his own garments, further boosting the town’s reputation.

3.4. Challenges and Revival Efforts

Despite its legacy, Ponduru has faced issues like:

• Declining interest among youth

• Low wages for artisans

• Lack of market access

However, initiatives by Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), NGOs, and some private designers have helped revive global interest in Ponduru khadi.

4. Mangalagiri – Blending Simplicity and Elegance

4.1. The Legacy of Mangalagiri Weaving

Mangalagiri, located near Vijayawada, is famed for its lightweight handwoven cottons with characteristic zari borders and plain or striped bodies. While not strictly khadi in the handspun sense, Mangalagiri cotton represents the state’s weaving excellence and complements the khadi movement.

4.2. Features of Mangalagiri Cotton Fabric

• Woven on Pit Looms: Enhances fabric durability and maintains traditional techniques.

• Bordered Elegance: Unique zari or Nizam-style borders set against solid-colored fabric.

• Use of Natural Dyes: Artisans often use eco-friendly dyes sourced from plants and minerals.

4.3. GI Tag and Global Reach

Mangalagiri cotton received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2013, giving it a distinct identity in the global textile market. It is now used in contemporary fashion, including kurtas, sarees, dupattas, and even western wear.

5. Other Prominent Khadi Weaving Towns in Andhra Pradesh

5.1. Dharmavaram – Known for Blended Khadi Sarees

While Dharmavaram in Anantapur is better known for silk sarees, a section of its weavers have ventured into khadi-silk blends, creating luxurious drapes that maintain the handwoven ethos.

5.2. Chirala – The Coastal Weaving Hub

Located in Bapatla district, Chirala is an old weaving town where khadi cotton and handloom coexist. Once known for "Chirala handkerchiefs" and export-grade cottons, the town continues to support rural livelihoods through small-scale khadi spinning units.

5.3. Madhavaram (West Godavari District)

This lesser-known village has been supplying khadi to government agencies for years. The cotton here is coarser and mostly used for shirts, towels, and traditional Indian dhotis.

6. Employment and Empowerment in the Khadi Sector

The khadi cotton industry in Andhra Pradesh employs:

• Weavers who work on looms

• Spinners who hand-spin yarn

• Designers and dyers

• Women’s cooperatives in rural areas

6.1. Government and NGO Support

• APCO (Andhra Pradesh Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society): Supports handloom and khadi weavers by ensuring raw materials and marketing.

• KVIC (Khadi and Village Industries Commission): Provides financial aid, equipment, and training.

• Livelihood Missions & CSR Projects: Empower local communities, especially women and tribal populations.

7. Challenges Facing the Khadi Industry in Andhra Pradesh

Despite its heritage value, the khadi cotton industry faces modern challenges:

• Decline in skilled weavers

• Low profit margins

• Competition from powerlooms and synthetic fabrics

• Marketing and awareness gaps

8. The Road Ahead – Reviving and Globalizing Andhra’s Khadi

8.1. Digital Marketing & E-commerce

Khadi from Ponduru, Mangalagiri, and other towns is gaining popularity on platforms like Amazon Karigar, Taneira, Okhai, and FabIndia. Social media campaigns and storytelling have helped bridge the gap between artisans and urban consumers.

8.2. Designer Collaborations

Top Indian designers are integrating Andhra khadi into contemporary fashion. Fusion sarees, jackets, stoles, and western wear are being made using these fabrics, appealing to younger buyers.

8.3. Youth Involvement and Skill Training

Training programs that blend traditional skills with modern business models can help retain young talent in the khadi sector. Government schemes and incubators are slowly making this shift possible.

Conclusion

The khadi cotton industry in Andhra Pradesh is more than a rural enterprise—it’s a living legacy of India’s cultural and spiritual values. From the ultra-fine khadi of Ponduru to the elegant simplicity of Mangalagiri cotton, these handwoven fabrics tell stories of resilience, craftsmanship, and community.

As we move toward sustainable fashion and conscious consumption, supporting these artisans can not only empower rural India but also reconnect us with the soul of the nation. Let the fabric of freedom continue to breathe through every strand of khadi, handspun with pride in Andhra Pradesh.

🧵 People Also Ask (PAA) – FAQs About Khadi Cotton Industry in Andhra Pradesh

1. What is special about Ponduru khadi?

Ponduru khadi is renowned for its ultra-fine count cotton, often called the "muslin of modern India." It's hand-spun and handwoven, and known for its soft texture and durability.

2. Why is Mangalagiri cotton fabric famous?

Mangalagiri fabric is popular for its unique weaving pattern, durability, and zari borders. Unlike many traditional weaves, it has no printed or painted designs—just pure, handwoven elegance.

3. What is the difference between khadi and handloom?

Khadi is both hand-spun and handwoven, while handloom fabrics are woven using machines or looms but may not necessarily be hand-spun. Khadi is more eco-friendly and sustainable.

4. How is khadi cotton made in Andhra Pradesh?

In towns like Ponduru and Mangalagiri, khadi is created through a process involving hand spinning on a charkha and hand weaving on traditional looms. The fabric is chemical-free and uses natural dyes.

5. Which are the most famous khadi cotton-producing towns in Andhra Pradesh?

Key towns include:

• Ponduru (Srikakulam District) – fine-count khadi

• Mangalagiri (Guntur District) – sarees and dress materials

• Venkatagiri (Nellore District) – cotton and silk mix sarees

• Dharmavaram (Anantapur) – cotton-silk hybrid weaves

6. Is khadi industry profitable in Andhra Pradesh?

Yes, with rising demand for sustainable fashion and government support through Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), the khadi sector is regaining its prominence and can be profitable.

7. Where can I buy authentic Ponduru or Mangalagiri khadi fabric?

You can purchase authentic khadi at:

• KVIC Khadi Bhandars

• Local handloom expos

• State-run AP Handicrafts stores

• Online platforms featuring weavers’ cooperatives

8. How does the khadi industry support rural livelihoods in Andhra Pradesh?

It provides employment to thousands of spinners, dyers, and weavers, especially women in rural and tribal regions, thus boosting village economies and preserving traditional crafts.

9. Are there any government schemes promoting khadi in Andhra Pradesh?

Yes, schemes like the Khadi Reforms and Development Programme (KRDP) and PMEGP support artisans with training, subsidies, and marketing platforms.

10. What are the environmental benefits of khadi cotton?

Khadi cotton:

• Uses no electricity

• Is biodegradable

• Uses fewer chemicals

• Promotes sustainable livelihoods